Archive for September 2006

Exploring Burkina Faso


A still full operational W123 Taxi in Ouagadougou

The tollroad checkpoint in Burkina Faso.
The checkpoints consists of gates which will be opened by someone after you paid.

Staying in the capital of Burkina Faso, taking some rest.


I reached Ouagadougou! This place somehow felt very remote

Ouagadougou (er, what?), here we come!


People standing under the tree, wondering who’s camping right there :)
That’s how I woke up, by the voices of the people who start to work early on the fields.

Old Mercedes 190, the passengers must have ended up dead..
This must have been a very nasty crash. I think this would be a good way too for Europe, to leave the crashed vehicles for sometime. People will hopefully think better about speeding.

Being on my own again, having lunch somewhere on the road to Ouagadougou

Aproaching Ouagadougou.
Burkina Faso’s capital has the cool name ‘Ouagadougou’, nice Scrabble word.

Entering Burkina Faso


Mud mosque

Driving through Africa

Bush camping in Burkina Faso close to Ouahigouya

Leaving Tombouctou


Early in the morning while everyone is still asleep

Breakfast on our own in the Sahara

Extra weight :)

Driving back from Tombouctou

Sweet donkeys

Happy free donkeys.
Finally some donkeys which aren’t in custody and hit with sticks and carrying huge payloads. That’s good to see after those months.

300TD driving on the dirt road

300TD approaching

Sand, sand, sand!


Drinking strong tea

The nomad daughter, she just came back from a 3 days walk with their cattle through the Sahara

The pretty daughter of the family.

Living a primitive and sometimes hard life, but they like it all the best

Beautiful young lady in the Sahara, north of Tombouctou

2wd in soft sand in the Sahara

Unbelievable, going upwards in soft sand!
I couldn’t imagine so much is possible with only a rear wheel drive by deflating the tyres a bit (to 1 bar)

Driving the Saharagelber through the Sahara

Hooaaay!

Tombouctou town

Tombouctou library

Mosque

Isn’t she sweet?

Beautiful door in Tombouctou town

Sandy streets in Tombouctou

How a Land Rover ends up sometimes

Market stall in Tombouctou

Entrance gate of Tombouctou

The trustworthy W123

Ploughing through deep sand

Ploughing through deep sand..
Coming from Tombouctou you have to drive on this dyke, where deep tracks of other vehicles make it hard to cross. People around were amazed this ‘petite voiture’ made it through the terrain.

Gaining enough speed is the trick to go through it as is deflating the tyres a bit

Lost some speed but the Benz still goes on

The last metres and… We did it!

I think it can’t get dirtier

Sweet and healthy donkeys in the Sahara

Our stay with the sahara Touaregs, northern Mali


Tombouctou town

Sandy Tombouctou

D(r)iving into the Sahara
Our german friends stayed behind en we went into the sahara with the good old Benz

Staying the night with saharan nomads

Feeling utterly relaxed, drinking tea with the nomads under the stars

Our stay with the nomads in the desert

Terrific Tombouctou


Waking up with the camels.
Our friends from Switzerland slept in the chairs of the germans and hung a mosquito net over it. Looks pretty cool

Sahara sunrise with the camels

Waking up at 6am, time to go on again

Camel with blue eyes

Ready to go to Tombouctou today

Direction Tombouctou

Taking the side of the dyk was a bad idea

The Ferry to cross the Niger

All cars stuffed on the ferryboat

Yes!!! Tombouctou!!!

Driving through the town Tombouctou

300TD monster reached Tombouctou

Dirt looks cool

Strong W123

Heading to the mysterious place Tombouctou!


Driving up north, Mali

Helping some locals with a broken tyre.
As we could fix it one of them took a ride with us. Two on the passengers seat, the african way :)

Huge rocky mountains, Douentza

Direction Tombouctou.
People often use the rivers for washing, bathing and cleaning things

Amazing rock formations.
On the road from Douentza to Tombouctou, Mali

Heading to Tombouctou

Road from Douentza to Tombouctou

This night we stayed with camel traders in the Sahara

Camels of the camel traders, close to Tombouctou

Having dinner

Mopti and surrounding villages


Mopti is a great place in Mali, it’s also the starting point to visit the stilt villages and the tribe on the tiny island villages.

Hundreds of boats in Mopti, Mali

Fisherman boats and equipment

Fisherman boats and equipment

Local way of transport to go to the various villages situated in the Niger delta

Small mud mosque on one of the islands around Mopti

Sweet little malian girl

Malian girl next to their village mosque

Enthousiastic kids in Mali.
Everytime I took a shot, I showed the image to them of themselves. They were amazed and wanted me to take another picture all the time.

Villages in the water in the Mopti region

Huge pelicans pay the village a visit.

Mopti sunset

Leaving, Djenne, continue to Mopti


The Great Mosque, Djenne Mali.
Yes, it’s completely built from mud (the building, not the Benz)

village supplies are stored in these nice clay constructions.

Bushcamping close to Mopti

A nice highlight in West-Africa: Djenne


Everything made from mud in Djenne

Woman in Djenne

Great pattern, full of fossils

Side entrance of the Great Mosque in Djenne

The front side of the Great Mosque

The lively monday market in Djenne

The Great Mosque, Djenne

The mud walls need a new cover every year. 4000 volunteers help with this process each time.

Market place in Djenne

Pretty lady sitting with her family in the living room

Cloth mill

Bad situation: They don’t have a refuse dump and they use the shores for that.

And a bit further away they’re doing the laundry and bathing

People leaving Djenne by boat

Traders of the region leaving Djenne after the market day

At the end of the day, the women start doing the laundry

Sunset in Djenne, Mali

Djenne, Mali
Trucks are loaded after a busy market monday

The Great Mosque while the sun is setting

Mud and Djenne


Morning ritual: a real cup of coffee. Very important.

The dirty W123 nose

Mud on the 300TD

Driving the W123

Whoops, belly’s stuck!

Mud castle, on our way to Segou

The Niger delta often shows fairytale-like scenery.

Waiting for the boat to Djenne

Waiting for the boat to Djenne, Mali

Pushed down Mercedes star.

Campsite in Djenne.
Look at my heavy mosquito protection :)

Leaving Bamako and heading east


Driving out of Bamako, Mali

Foot destroyed by the mosquitos

Interesting place to be I guess: Centre de Bla

Get out the rope.
Well, this was just not possible, we gave it a shot but having a 4×4 is a real pro here :)

Le Taxi Terrible!


Fixing a 504 break taxi

Taxi standing place, Bamako

Sometimes even hard to recognize, the 504 taxis in Bamako

Also called ‘Sept-place’. Which means 7 places to sit.

The inside of the 504 taxi. There’s not much original anymore.

Back seats in the 504 taxi. Enjoy your trip!

‘Stop’ sign

average multi-story building in Bamako

Roaring Hippo on the roundabout, Bamako (Mali)

Fixing up the Saharagelber in Bamako


The Niger river in Bamako

Our place, one of the few place you can camp in Bamako

Getting new tyres and having the car aligned

Aligning with a wire, works great

Bamako after heavy rainfall

Mercedes-Benz dealer in Bamako

Tiny sandy streets in Bamako

Street in Bamako

Finding shelter for the rainfall

Bamako!


After a good night sleep in a cosy place, Bamako

Quite a good W123 wagon in Bamako, Mali. Probably just arrived :)

W123 in Bamako, Mali

Check-up in Bamako at official Mercedes dealer
Mercedes and Citroen dealer, to be exact. Nice combination, eh?
The interim score: engine rubbers need to bee replaced and a small stabilization shock absorber. I had a tyre and filters replaced too. No failures of anything whatsoever! Unbelievable!

Street repairs, Bamako (Mali)

Old trucks in Bamako

Streets in Bamako when the evening falls

Entering Mali


Our bushcamp close to the Malian border

The first Mali miles

Rocky mountains in Western Mali

Amazing rock pillar

Terrific scenery

Trying to approach the falls

Red sand roads in Mali

If you look closely, you see a cyclist under that ‘bush’ ;)

W123 taxi in Bamako, Mali

Being shot, and lots of water


We finally found a place, nice and cosy, or so we thought…
That night we were attacked and they shot at us. First we thought this was the end of our happy lives, we were afraid there was a riot going on between rebels and the army. I saw the army earlier that day. It was dark and we heard them walking through the bushes. Pretty close and at some point they shot at us and the bullet hit the Landcruiser, I was freaking scared and thought I’d die here. We started screaming that we were tourists, hoping they would stop shooting. When they had pionted their lights at us they came towards us and it turned out these fellows were the villagers, looking for thieves who stole some of their cattle. I explained in french we were just bush camping here and we didn’t steal no cattle. It ended up all right and we talked for some time with them. I never was so scared and happy in just one minute.

A night to remember. We’re still alive!

The Landcruiser was indeed hit by the bullit

Peugeot 504 fully loaded

Red sand roads in Guinea

The same species shows differences in fading

Nice view over the Niger floating through the landscape of the Fouta Djalon

After heavy rains the roads were flooded

Roads become rivers in the rainy season in West Africa

Yeeehaaa!

The nice N6 road to Mali

Eastern Guinea-Conakry

Exploring and breathing in the atmosphere of Africa


Typical African villages in Guinea-Conakry

pieces of land with self-made fences.

Stony mountain

Old man pushing cart. Life can be very hard towards older people who don’t have family who can take care of him. They literally have to work til death.

Inland road

Traversing the bush


Aliens on the market place
These people on this market place never had seen white people, or at least it looked like that. It was really something.
When we walked over the market place and after a while stopped turned around, we saw a whole group of people stopping too, staring at us as if some aliens had landed and were now finding out how planet earth looked like.

As Rolf tends to be very big, and Heike is very blond they were maybe even more amazed. I felt it wouldn’t make a difference when I would put that pumpkin half on my head, getting more attention just wasn’t possible :)
This was one of the strangest experiences of my life.


The market place. This is what we saw when we stopped walking and turned around

There is quite some stuff on offer at this stall.

Colourful people on the market place

Albino girl on market in Guinea-Conakry

Trying our best to find a great spot to bushcamp

Exploring the Fouta Djalon


Bush camping in the Fouta Djalon, Guinea-Conakry

The engine score so far: No technical problems.. zero, zip.
The red sand-coloured engine of the 300td.
The reservoir of the hydraulic system is quite clean, the leveling system had a hard time the last couple of days and that’s probably why it overflowed. I think there’s a problem for the leveling system to keep the car at its height (as the Benz is elevated quite a bit).

Up until now, some 11k kilometers later, no technical problems at all, after some heavy trips, with rivers, rocks, stony surfaces, huge potholes, soft sand, pools, mud, corrugated pavings and steep climbs.
Just one flat tyre, that’s it.


Saharagelb with sandy splashes

“Car wash” in Guinea-Conakry. They drive the cars in to the water or nearby and start washing them with a wet cloth.
To the right there’s a 504 break without headlights and loads of rust.

Peugeot 504 and 504 break in Guinea-Conakry. They live tough lives out here.

Great place in West-Africa, the Fouta Djalon of Guinea-Conakry

Another 505 break, close to the local ‘gas station’. You can buy the fuel in liter bottles. I guess this is only used for the mopeds.

Drinking a coke at one of these small ’shops’ along the road.

The smallest ‘Mobil’ gas station

M or W?

Huge crash between a truck and a taxi. Unfortunately 6 persons died in this crash, there were 2 children among them. Unfortunately 6 persons died in this crash, 2 children among them.
The traffic accident rate is very high in West-Africa. There are many wreckless drivers and often they drive way too fast. When you drive over here, you’re constantly reminded of this fact, as all the crashed vehicles are still lying along the road.

The taxi with 5 or 6 people in it who all died, as I was told.

Another terrible crash happened here and I don’t want to know the details..


Our private camping place :) We found ourselves a good camping spot I can say. A guy who saw us came towards us and decided to observe us for a while, not able to exchange at least one word with us. As we were quite used to this (though still bothering us, after a long exhaustive day ) we made a bit fun of him by started talking complete jibberish to him and to each other. He smiled a bit not knowing what to say or do.

Direction Fouta Djalon


Our pleasant stay in the motel in Labe, 2 guards included :) . After our heavy trip, all the freaking paperwork and border madness we enjoyed our time to relax at the motel and the city itself.

Heavily devaluated money. Hundreds of thousands Guinea Francs, worth only about 100 Euro’s or something.

Much used in Guinea-Conakry: The 505 break. Most of the time, various sayings are painted on these cars.

Map of Guinea-Conakry. Today we would continue our trip and head into the direction of the beautiful Fouta Djalon

Crossing a river (this time using the bridge).

Long and deep pools

Unreadable sign. You have to get out of the car so you can have a close look at what it says (and then have to conclude you still can’t read it).

Waterfall, Fouta Djalon

High waterfall in the stunning Fouta Djalon

Nightclub Kinkon must be THE place to be around here.

Relaxing in Labe, Guinea-Conakry


Market in Labe. We felt like aliens, really. Everyone was staring at us and buying bread resulted in all these boys standing around us observing how a white man orders his bread :)

Ha! And I was worried about my maximum payload before departure… :-D

Hotel du Tourisme (Guinea, Labe). It must have been a great place at the time. It’s now inhabited by a huge amount of vultures.

Peugeot 504 pick-up

Labe, Guinea-Conakry

North Guinea, our trip to Labe


Bushcamped in a small village near an old house

On our way to Labe

Huge, huge vultures!

After a tough day of driving, Rolf made a small steering failure, and hop! The landy was stuck, leaning against the side of the road.

Tricky part, off-roading from Senegal to Guinea-Conakry


Crossing a small river (Senegal)

Getting water from the river

I think I need a boat.

Putting the W123 to the test. This was steep (you can’t see that on the image though) and full of rocks. This track was described as ‘very difficult, even with a 4×4. It was difficult, but possible. The trickiest part is to not hit the sump.

Offroading in Senegal, On our way to a small border Senegal-Guinea.

Inspecting if all is okay. This is crazy! :)

Believe it or not, but it IS possible :-) (click on the image to enlarge to get a better view). How to do this? Drive very cautiously, nose against the windshield and try to estimate if you need to steer a bit right or left, or turn the wheel as fast as you can because that stone is too big to drive over. The trick is get a feeling which stone you can drive over and which one you need to avoid (And eh, avoiding all of them results in going back :)

Unbelievable, the Saharagelber did it!

Removing stones which may be too big. Better safe then sorry.

Crossing the river in the bush, Guinea-Conakry

Broken bridge, so taking the river itself (Taken from the Landcruiser)